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Make sure to do fillets right the first time becayuse because this time we had to fill them in again (using West systems + fast hardener + silica)
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- Increase from room temperature to 150F at a rate of no more than 2-5F per minute
- Hold at 150F for 3 hours
- Increase to 250F (no more than 2-5F per minute)
- Hold at 250F for 3 hours
- Increase to 300F (no more than 2-5 per minute)
- Hold at 300F for 3 hours
- Ramp down to 100F (no more than 2-5F per minute) --> decreasing temp takes a lot longer than increasing and lower temps are harder to control
- Do not shut down the oven and leave it to cool down
8. Post-processing
Required Materials:
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need to: sand creases, sand phenolic down to be flush with CF
Add more fillets once high spots sanded because sanding all high spots removes too much CF
Make fin can transition --> epoxy
Lessons Learned
- Make the phenolic slot thicker to account for fit between phenolic and G10
- When doing the tube layup, make sure there are no bubbles (use heat shrink to help with this)
- Make sure the fin jig layers are properly spaced and insert the fins and make sure the tip-to-tip distance is identical before doing the root bond
- Take care to do root fillets correctly the first time so you don't have to touch them up later
- Cooling the fin can to room temperature during the oven cure takes longer than you think it will
- Don't spray glue carbon fiber to wax paper until after it has been laser cut (wax paper will catch fire in the laser cutter)
- Make sure the cutout squares are large enough so that there won't be tape on the cutouts after they are laser cut (removing tape is difficult and causes frays)
- If any pieces of the cutout are still attached to the carbon fiber, don't pull on it- use scissors to cut or you'll get lots of frays
- Make sure you have enough wax paper
- Make sure you have SHARP scissors for the layup