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- 1/8" sheet of G10 (INSERT LINK)
- 1/4" sheet of phenolic (INSERT LINK)
- 15 degree end mill (https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/04153326)
- 1/16" cutting bit (for mill)
Part One: Waterjet G10 Fin Core
Make DXF file
Turn on waterjet
Select proper settings, use lead in
Use weights
Make extras
Part Two: Waterjet Phenolic
Part Three: Cut G10 Tab
Use spare fin to align G10
Make sure surface is very smooth
Measure average thickness of each fin and use that to calculate how much to take off from each side
Make several passes
Part Four: Cut Phenolic Slot
Use oil so that phenolic doesn't heat up too much
Part Five: Cut Phenolic Taper
Part Six: Mill Down Phenolic
Use machining tape to stick phenolic down, edge at edge of clamp thing
Take off 0.020" inch, adjust mill when you turn it over to take off additional 0.020"
Part Seven: Assemble Fins
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- When waterjetting 1/8" G10, delamination is a concern because G10 is a composite (made of several layers of fiberglass) and 1/8" is pretty thin. Make sure to use the "Low Pressure" and "Brittle Material" settings on the OMAX waterjet.
- Make extra fins and phenolic leading edges. That way, if anything goes wrong, you won't have to go back and make them all over again.
- When making the tab on the G10, don't mill everything in one go- use several passes on the mill so that you take off a little bit of material each time. This way, the tab will be more uniform/even.
- When cutting the phenolic slot, use oil because the phenolic will heat up from the cutting piece.
Software
I used Solidworks to model the fins that were used on Hermes. Solidworks will also be used to design the phenolic - G10 interface and assemblies.
Are there any limitations of this software? Make suggestions for how you could design the part better if we had a different program/more time
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