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- We cut out many rectangles of fiberglass, in several sizes. We probably cut approximately 30 each of 3"x4", 4"x8", and 10"x12", as well as 6 strips of 3"x48".
- We laid out the mold halves next to each other, mold side up and pointing the same way.
- We coated the mold halves in many, many layers of mold release.
- We coated the nose cone part of the mold with gelcoat to provide a better surface finish. We did not have enough remaining gelcoat for the coupler section, but the mylar provided a superior surface finish.
- We placed a strip on the right side of each mold, and wetted it with epoxy.
- We placed a strip of wax paper on the left side of each mold, covering about 1-2" of the mold surface.
- We placed fiberglass rectangles on the mold, and squeegeed epoxy onto the fabric.
- We repeated step 2 until we had completed 5 layers near the tip, 7 layers near the base and 9 layers in the coupler.
- We folded over the glass on the left side of the mold to make space, and removed the wax paper.
- We put together the mold halves, taking care to insert the free fiberglass strip under the folded-over fiberglass so that they overlapped. A useful trick here was to use scrap aluminum as a shim, to keep the mold halves apart while we reached our hands into the parting line.
- We used the stick (accessory tool pictured above) to fold back the folded-over fiberglass, such that the layers overlapped.
- We used the stick to apply 4 more strips of fabric on the inside of the nosecone; 2 on either side.
- We moved the nosecone to the floor, with the cone pointing downwards.
- We used two very large clamps to clamp together the coupler section, and some weights to push the rest of the mold together.
- We used two balloons to apply pressure to the composite as it cured; the balloons were inflated with the vacuum pump because we were all wearing respirators.
- We left the part to cure overnight, and then removed it.
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The second nosecone from the MDF mold. | A large crease near the tip of the nosecone. | The base of the nosecone is not a sharp edge. | A small tuft near the coupler section. | Large tufts near the tip of the nosecone. |
Of course, there were several recurring issues arising in the parts:
- Large divots creases near the parting line: because the cavity was so large, it was very difficult to make the overlap neat, so some areas didn't overlap correctly.
- Stray tufts of fiberglass inside the nosecone: because we weren't able to reach the end of the nosecone, the tip of the nosecone was blocked off by stray tufts of fiberglass that weren't smoothed out.
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